Surfing, for me, was a consuming, urgent lust that wouldnt fade until it was consummated, at a rustic surf camp in California. Never mind that I was 15 and from a landlocked Boston suburb where, I later learned, being a surfer is synonymous with masochism. Never mind that I had yet to meet anyone who surfed. Or that Id had to take my lifeguarding test twice.As soon as I saw that surfer gliding across a tiny Cape Cod wave, there was no turning back.What I didnt know was that the sport would become a kind of passport, pain point and calling card all in one. I couldnt have imagined that, 20 years later, it would be a gateway to both my dream career and a contested space, where Id be alternately glowing in the embrace of a global family and struggling to find where I fit in.When summer came around again, I took all my babysitting money and some of my moms air miles and landed at a surf school in San Clemente, California, a wave-centric town where the flames of my passion grew to new heights. To some, San Clemente is known as the moneyed village where President Richard Nixon retired. To me, it was a magical land where parents drove Volkswagen buses piled high with boards; kids had golden-brown skin and sun-bleached hair; and the air smelled of campfires and eucalyptus.My first wave, however, was far from divine. It was at a heavy shorebreak -- no fun for neophytes -- and on my first ride I washed up on the sand into a spray of pebbles, with my polka dot bikini top around my waist. Far from the ecstasy that imbues most surfers first times, I had my doubts. Was this going to be as bad as the torment of gym class?But after a few sessions at a gentler spot, I actually got the hang of it. My bikini stayed on. I made friends. I got tan. And I felt strong and beautiful and free. Thats no small thing when youre sporting glasses, braces and pubertys effects all in one awkward bundle. Nothing made me feel as good as surfing and, whatever markings of adolescence I might have had on the outside, on the inside I was starting to become a more confident girl.The week in San Clemente -- camping on the bluff, surfing three times a day and eating hot dogs under the stars -- felt like a year. In fact, it changed my life. I returned to the camp the next summer, this time as a counselor, and bought my first board (a terrible, paper-thin choice for a beginner). Between family ski trips and school breaks, I spent winter weekends watching every surf movie I could find, dreaming of sunnier climes and sparkling seas.After four years of college in New York City, where I still clung to my ocean-bound love, I wanted to see what building a life around surfing would look like. I moved to Bondi Beach in Sydney, still seedy in parts and bustling with expats. We waited tables and cooked brekkies for hungover Brits, and saved up for camper vans and surfaris. In truth, my surfing didnt get much better, but my ideas about how to live definitely were.Yet for all the enviable evenings at open-air restaurants with a table full of Kiwi cooks or sultry afternoons on Bondis crowded beach, what I didnt resolve was how to dive into adulthood without abandoning my passion. It seemed easy for Aussies with leathery skin and scruffy beards. But it wasnt like that for me.For a while, I resented surfing because it complicated life choices. Where I was from, women became lawyers, doctors and academics -- jobs with educational distinction and clear career paths. But I knew there had to be a way to do both -- to have my sun-splashed Saturdays in the waves, and work at something I loved during the week.The big caveat, of course, is that its not all perfect: Ive hit major stumbling blocks on land and, yes, Im still scared of getting pounded in the water, pebbles or not. But this summer, after an intense few years of learning the ropes and working nonstop, Im surfing regularly again -- not big waves and not heavy shorebreaks, but paddling out nonetheless. In essence, its a surfing life on my own terms, in a way that feels strong and beautiful and free. Jets Jerseys China .875,000, avoiding arbitration. Clippards deal Monday means all eight Nationals players who filed for arbitration wound up settling before a hearing. Authentic Folorunso Fatukasi Jersey . It was just business as usual for the Thunder at home. 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Michell Burger, a woman who lives on an estate next to Pistorius gated community, said she and her husband were awoken by the screams in the pre-dawn hours of Feb. 14 last year, when Pistorius killed Reeva Steenkamp by shooting four times through a door in his bathroom. DETROIT -- After being activated from the DL earlier in the day,?Tigers?right fielder J.D. Martinez entered Wednesdays game in the eighth inning as a pinch hitter and pounced on the first pitch he saw from?White Sox?pitcher?Chris Sale, sending it into the shrubs above the center-field fence.I saw the pitch coming, and it looked nice and slow, and I just knew, he said.Martinezs solo shot would prove to be the deciding run as Detroit held on for the 2-1 win and extended its winning streak to eight games.?That was like a movie, Detroit infielder Ian Kinsler said. That was something Ive never seen before. It is certainly good to have him back.Martinez, 28, received a long standing ovation when he made his way to the plate to hit for James McCann, and it only got louder as he launched Sales fastball an estimated 434 feet.That was probably the coolest moment of my career, Martinez said. I tried to go up there with a plan, but it was so crazy that I just decided to see the ball and hit the ball.The crowd of 32,526 roared again during the musical tribute until Martinez took a curtain call.If I could thank every fan individually, I would, he said. I didnt know what to do. I wasnt expecting any of that.After playing a double-header with Triple-A Toledo the day before, Martinez didnt start Wednesday but was available to pinch hit if necessary. He is expected to start Thursday.?Martinez had been sidelined since mid-June with a fractured elbow. According to Tigers manager Brad Ausmus, Martinez has been throwing from 290 feet, so throwing from the outfield is not expected to be an issue when he takes the field again.?When I read it, too, I was like, Is this a typo? Ausmus said. But I double-checked. He said he was throwing basically from the outfield wall to home plate.Said Martinez: I threw it hard, threw good, so I dont have any doubt about my throwing.Martinez, who led the team with 38 home runs last season, said the time misssed has been frustrating, though the teams recent success has made it a little less mind-numbing.ddddddddddddIts definitely been hard, Martinez told reporters of his time away. Its been easier because weve been playing pretty well. I was down there, and Im like, This is sweet. Were gaining ground right now. Everythings good right now. Me and [Jordan Zimmermann] are on the verge of coming back now, and it was just exciting down there watching the games and watching the guys play so well.The Tigers are in the thick of the race for the American League Central, sitting two games behind the Cleveland Indians, who fell 13-5 to the?Twins?on Wednesday. Thats a stark contrast from last season, when the team had essentially waved the white flag, jettisoning a trio of key players at the?trade deadline with the clubs playoff chances looking bleak.Martinez said he is excited to rejoin the team just as the playoff race heats up.Thats what helps teams get through August and September, he said. Its a long last couple months if youre out of it. Youre kind of just grinding through, and the clubhouse is miserable. Last year thats kind of how it felt. Its tough to go out there and play, but you know when youre in it and youve got a shot to get to the playoffs, theres nothing like it.Zimmermann, who was recently activated from the disabled list after being out with a neck strain, will take the mound Thursday in his first appearance since July 4.These guys have been playing great with J.D. down and myself, Zimmermann told reporters. Guys stepped up nicely and have played well. We have a nice streak going, so hopefully that continues [Wednesday] and I can do my part [Thursday] and keep it going. I am just excited to get back.Information from ESPNs Katie Strang and The Associated Press was used in this report.? Cheap Jerseys Online Wholesale NFL Womens Jerseys Cheap NFL Jerseys China China NFL Hoodies Stitched NFL Jerseys Discount NFL Jerseys Wholesale NFL Camo Jerseys ' ' '